The journey with our Yamaha R1M started some time before we even received this R1M. Previously, we had another Yamaha R1M which we were building up into something special. That build featured Marchesini wheels, the Akrapovic Evolution Exhaust, and the full Brembo upgrade, amongst many other parts. Unfortunately, after making great progress with the bike, it got stolen…
After some time, and contact with Yamaha Motor USA, we were able to acquire a brand new Yamaha R1M, and have it delivered still within its crate! It was a treat to receive a bike in that form, and truly start a bike from zero.
With the new R1M in our possession, we decided to create the Ultimate Yamaha R1M, and did we do that? Our answer is yes, but we know not everyone will agree. The entire design philosophy of this build was to take what Yamaha had already created and designed in the R1M, and build upon it by upgrading everywhere that we could see a limitation.
Remember, to hit price points and certain profit margins, manufacturers have to cut back in areas. So wherever we saw this, we strove to change and upgrade it. With this goal, we changed all the plastic pieces to full carbon fiber, upgraded the braking system to Brembo everywhere with FrenTubo carbon fiber braided brake lines, added the OZ Racing GASS forged aluminum wheels and much more.
And the stand-out piece is a World Superbike Exhaust. Our love for the Yamaha R1/R1M platform began by seeing the bike compete in the various racing series like MotoGP and World Superbike, and being in contact with Akrapovic, we received the opportunity of purchasing a true World Superbike Superstock Spec full titanium Akrapovic Exhaust system. We jumped on the opportunity and the rest is history.
With the help of BrenTuning, we received a custom tune for the WSBK Akrapovic Exhaust and reached 198 HP! That’s 198 horsepower going to the wheels, not the crank.
So did we achieve our goal of creating the ultimate Yamaha R1M? For us, the answer is yes. Others may be able to create higher horsepower examples, with crazier parts/pieces and custom swing arms, but at that point the bike is no longer something that retains the essence and character of what an R1M, and what Yamaha intended in their design. And we believe the Motomillion R1M achieves that, and pushes it to where it can and should be, making it the Ultimate Yamaha R1M.
Parts List:
"UpMap is a project born from the need to improve the performance of the vehicle, in a scenario where the continuous development of electronics makes it increasingly difficult to achieve this goal with the exclusive use of exhaust systems.”
With a variety of tunes available designed for specific exhaust systems, and to remove factory restrictions, UpMap has become an essential part for unlocking the true performance of your bike.
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"UpMap is a project born from the need to improve the performance of the vehicle, in a scenario where the continuous development of electronics makes it increasingly difficult to achieve this goal with the exclusive use of exhaust systems.”
With a variety of tunes available designed for specific exhaust systems, and to remove factory restrictions, UpMap has become an essential part for unlocking the true performance of your bike.
It has even become a go-to for Streetfighter V4 / Streetfighter V4S models that have a full exhaust or a slip on, since the UpMap flash will disable the exhaust servo. Without the upmap flash you will get a check engine light on your dash.
It isn’t a necessity, but it is highly recommended. It removes the potential check engine light from having the servo removed, smoothes the throttle and puts the correct mapping on your ECU to take full advantage of the installed exhaust system.
With UpMap being such an essential asset for modified superbikes, we created this write up for an easy-to-follow tutorial to get it going on your bike.
Before getting your UpMap tune on your bike, double check that you have ordered the right plug. Your bike may have either the EU4 plug, which is the 4-pin, yellow rectangular plug, or the EU5 plug, which is 6-pin, square and red.
Usually, you can find the diagnostic plug under the rider seat (this was the case for our Ducati Streetfighter). You will either see a 4-pin (EU4) or 6-pin (EU5) plug.
Once you confirm your plug, order the correct model UpMap device and let’s get started.
As stated above, on most motorcycles, you will find the diagnostics plug under the rider seat. Proceed to remove your rider’s seat to access the plug.
On the Ducati Streetfighter V4S, you’ll find two bolts holding down the seat at the rear-most end. Pry the seat forward to access the bolts.
Once your seat is removed, plug in the UpMap device to the connector plug, and then connect it to your motorcycle’s diagnostic plug. Double-check that the plugs have clicked in correctly and are not loose (you do not want them coming undone while doing the map upload).
You should see the UpMap device light turn on, notifying that it is functioning and receiving power.
Finally, check that your bike is in the run position and you can now move on to the phone app.
If you have not done so, head to your app store and download the UpMap app. You’ll find it by searching for UpMap.
On the main screen of the app, start by tapping the helmet icon. Then devices, and click on the plus sign (+) to add your UpMap device.
There will be a disclaimer and terms & conditions that you must accept to proceed.
After, you will have a screen showing what you must have to establish the connection.
Once you’ve verified everything, select “Go” and proceed to select your motorcycle manufacturer. This will take you to a screen that demonstrates where you can find the diagnostics plug on your specific model.
Continue on, and you will be notified to plug in your UpMap device (if you have not done so already). Then, turn on your ignition (do not start the bike). And finally, make sure that your bluetooth is turned on.
Your phone will now search for the UpMap device. Once it is found, you will see it named by its serial number. If you have more than one UpMap device present, confirm that you are connecting to the correct device by the serial number.
Select the UpMap device, and click on Configure. The app will now update the UpMap firmware.
After the firmware is up to date, it will automatically detect your motorcycle model. Confirm that the selection is correct by clicking on the model, and then select Configure. Finally, select Confirm and End Configuration.
You’re halfway there. Now it’s time to select your map.
Navigate to the home screen, and tap on the shopping cart icon. On the top right there will be a drop down menu to select English if you need to.
You will see all the maps available for your motorcycle. In our case, we installed the Arrow Works Full Titanium Exhaust on the Streetfighter V4, so we chose the applicable map for it.
With your map selected, add it to your cart, and proceed to fill out the information. Make sure that the information is your own to ensure that you have full access to your motorcycle’s mapping.
Before completing your purchase, there will be a text box for vouchers. Type in “Termignonigift” to receive your first map for free.
Complete your order, and then navigate back to the home page. Tap on the helmet, and select the Maps tab. You should see your purchased maps here.
Now it is ready to be flashed onto your bike.
While in the Maps tab, to start the flash just tap on the map you have purchased, and select Confirm.
You will need to double check all your connections again, and that your ignition is On and in the Run position.
Once you confirm, then your phone will begin downloading the map data onto the UpMap device. This may take a few minutes. Remember to stay as close as possible to your UpMap device during these final steps to prevent any connection issues.
After it is downloaded onto the UpMap, it will begin the process of setting it up on your bike. Let it finish, and the process is complete!
With your bike now remapped, you will need to run it through 3 ignition cycles so that the ECU can adapt to the new baseline. One ignition cycle means turning on the bike, letting it warm up, take it out for a short ride and then shut it off. Repeat it 3 times, and it should be settled.
Enjoy your new UpMap tune!
]]>In recent years, WSBK has allowed teams to use brake cooling to combat braking issues that arise under intense conditions. Where temperatures are high and riding conditions demand for heavy braking, teams have designed carbon fiber fenders that direct air to their braking systems to prevent early brake fade.
The high temperatures that braking systems undergo when in heavy braking can cause overheating which causes the brakes to experience “brake fade.” Under normal everyday riding conditions, brake cooling ducts will not make a big enough impact to feel their benefit, but for those who push their bikes to the limits, the brake cooling ducts give added security and confidence in the performance of the bike. However, even for those who are not pushing their brakes to the limits, these cooling ducts offer the benefit of pushing the dust off the caliper pistons, helping with prolonging the caliper rebuild time by keeping caliper pistons cleaner.
Alpha Racing is a leading manufacturer in the space, and have made their WSBK Carbon Fiber Brake Cooling Ducts available for purchase. With this, you’ll be running true WSBK parts on your build. A part with reliable and proven R&D behind it. This is why it is the one we have chosen to install on one of our S1000RR’s.
Another option that we recommend is the Fullsix Carbon Fiber Brake Cooling Ducts which will offer very comparable performance.
Now, on to the install. Although not exact, the process will be very similar on the Fullsix part.
If you take a look at the Alpha Racing Brake Cooling Duct, you’ll notice that there are 2 bolt mount points and a clip at the bottom. One of the bolt mounts goes behind the front fender bracket, and the other bolt mount is placed under the top bolt of the brake caliper.
Start with removing the 2 bolts we mentioned above. The first being the one holding the front fender. The second is the top brake caliper bolt. In our case, we opted to change the original bolts for the ProTi bolts.
With the new ProTi being titanium and the calipers being aluminum, it is critical to use some anti-seize to prevent any issues removing the bolts in the future. If you are using the original bolts, you can skip this step.
With the anti-seize applied, just place the Alpha Racing brake cooling duct in place, and bolt everything down. Repeat on the other side and you are good to go!
]]>In late 2020, we picked up a stock Ducati Streetfighter V4 and sought out to make the ultimate road-going build.
These bikes are beautiful from the factory. There’s a reason that they’ve been voted the most beautiful bike in show at EICMA (International Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition), the most important motorcycle trade show in the world, in 2008 and again in 2019. So, to many, the Streetfighter is a platform that does not need to be modified.
However, we love building bikes here at Motomillion, so we wanted to create a unique Streetfighter build that completely encompasses the spirit here at Motomillion. So, the Motomillion Streetfighter V4 was born. All parts were tastefully chosen and considered to bring together a build that makes sense, and looks right.
When you look at the Motomillion Streetfighter V4, if you didn’t know what the original model looks like, you may think that this is a higher spec’d factory bike. That was our aim. The perfect Streetfighter V4 build, with every part and piece coming together in such a way that the whole is greater than the individual parts.
So let’s see the rundown!
Ducati Streetfighter V4
And that is every single part we used on this build!
Feel free to check out the links to learn more about the individual parts and pick up any that you want on your Streetfighter build. The Motomillion Streetfighter is going up for sale now, and although we will miss it, we have new exciting projects coming up.
Let us know in the comments what your favorite piece was from the Motomillion Streetfighter!
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Getting down to the basics, air filters clean up the air going into your engine to help burn fuel, and prevent unnecessary wear and tear to your engine internals. When dust or sand gets in through the filter, it mixes with the engine oil which is bad news for your internals.
So, cleaner air in your combustion chamber ups the efficiency and power that your engine can produce. More air also ups the efficiency, and that’s the battle manufacturers face. Keep the air cleaner to prevent wear and tear in the engine, or allow a little more dust in there for better airflow and more power.
Most bikes come with paper filters. These are pretty good at keeping dust and dirt out of your engine, but restrict the airflow. If all you care about is keeping clean air going into your engine, these do the job. Some of us, however, want a little more power.
Other materials commonly used are cotton or sponge. For cotton, K&N is an example that uses it for higher airflow. Cotton gauze is more porous (compared to the paper air filters), so it flows more air, but usually cotton is coated in oil to catch more of the fine dust particles. A plus about these cotton filters is that they can be washed and reused, but you need to re-coat it with oil. And this oil-coating can be sucked into the engine, which may not do any damage to the internals, but it will damage sensors over time.
Sponge filters, well, I mean we use these more for washing than anything, right? Servicing these is messy and they need to be serviced almost every ride. Which is why you don’t really see sponge filters being used in OEM or Aftermarket applications.
But all these have one thing in common. Their achilles heel. With paper, cotton or sponge, the material cannot be made uniform, so some of the openings in the material end up being larger which allows more dust. To fix this they are coated with oil, and multiple layers of the material are used.
For a long time, this was all that we had, but Sprint Filter came in and revolutionized the air filter space. They did this by using new material: Polyester Fabric.
Polyester is not affected by folding. And only a single layer needs to be used. And because of the material, each hole can be made the exact same size, so the airflow and filtering is consistent throughout the entire weave, ensuring consistent filtering of foreign particles. The consistency also provides a benefit that is overlooked, turbulence. In the paper, cotton and sponge filters, the inconsistency of their hole-sizes introduces turbulence in the air-flow. With Sprint Filter’s technology, the turbulence is completely eliminated.
We gotta mention the maintenance too, because all you need is a can of compressed air and it’s good to go.
This all started in 2010 when Sprint Filter launched its motorcycle line. And they’ve only grown since then. Right now, they supply filters to over 70% of the MotoGP teams.
Are you using Sprint Filter currently? What are you running on your bike at the moment? Check out our video on this topic for further details, and let us know what topics you want to see us cover next!
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Installation of the TWM remote adjuster is very simple, and takes only minutes.
To view the product being installed in our store, click HERE
Tools you will need are:
- 2mm Allen Key Socket
- Drill with fine bits
Let's Begin!
Be aware of the knock-off replica remote adjusters that are out there. TWM Remote Adjusters are available through authorized TWM dealers, and have lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects and fading of its anodizing. Authentic TWM Remote Adjusters can be identified by the distinct laser etched markings including the production date markings.
Copyright (2018) - www.motomillion.com
]]>In this article we are going to explain why we chose only Sprint Filter as our go to air filters and what makes them completely different from others even though 3rd party dyno testing and even a comprehensive 3rd party laboratory analysis has shown Sprint Filter to be superior when compared to any others out there.
Air filters serve two main purposes on the motorcycle, the primary purpose for them is to block foreign particles from entering into the cylinder chamber, and secondly to allow good air flow in order to let the engine breathe. This has been a constant battle, since traditionally good air flow meant compromising on the filtration capabilities, this is where materials and the substances used played a major role.
For a long time (and they still are) air filters were primarily made of paper, cotton, or sponge type materials which were often soaked in oil for performance applications. The main purpose of the oil is to catch dust particles which would make it through since the size of the holes in these materials can not be the exact same size throughout the filter, this is one of the main limitations of using paper, cotton or sponge type material.
Thanks to Sprint Filter, there is another material being used in the making of air filters which is a huge leap forward compared to traditional methods and materials being used.
Sprint Filter has revolutionized the air filter market by using polyester fabric to construct their air filters. Unlike other materials we discussed above, polyester fabric is a solid material which is not affected by folding, difference in pressure nor during being handled for maintenance. Only a single layer of polyester fabric is used when making Sprint Filters as compared to having multiple layers of other materials used to achieve filtration properties that are needed for an air filter.
Using polyester fabric has made Sprint Filter capable of making each hole in the fabric exactly the same size. This enabled these air filters to control exactly the amount of air and the size of the particles which would pass through.
Furthermore using polyester fabrics have made these air filters to be lifetime filters, meaning you will never have to replace it as long as you take proper care of them, which is as simple as removing it and cleaning it with compressed air, that is it!
Now that we know what sets apart Sprint Filter air filters from others in terms of the materials used, lets look at the different polyester fabrics that Sprint Filter uses. We have put each polyester fabric under a microscope for you, this way, you can see what we are raving on about.
P08 Polyester Material
This redish orange color polyester material is used on the most popular Sprint Filter air filters, which is ideal for road and track use. It provides an air flow of 5050 liters per meter square a second while being able to trap 93.13% of 100 μm (micrometer) particles.
Cotton air filters are able to achieve only numbers between 3700-4800 liters per meter square a second depending on how many layers are used in their construction. Lets not forget that with a cotton filter at the higher end of that flow scale you are going to be letting too many particles through, trapping only 76.42% of 100 μm particles.
This is why the Sprint Filter P08 air filters have been the most popular choice for consumers who wanted maximum performance from a performance street air filter.
P16 Polyester Material
The P16 polyester material was developed only for racing use, as you can see the size of the holes in the material are larger than the P08. This allows for almost double the air flow at 10000 liters per meter square while the filtration capability is at 160 μm. Due to the filtration capabilities, it is not advised to be used on the street.
The Sprint Filter P16 air filters have been used by many top level race teams around the world due to its unrivaled qualities as a filter and its performance.
P08F1-85 Polyester Material
Developed and used by many top level factory racing teams in MotoGP and WSBK, the P08F1-85 polyester material is the latest polyester material which Sprint Filter has introduced. This patented material is a huge leap forward in the world of filtration because it allows an air flow of 15000 liters per meter square while guaranteeing a filtration capability of particles as small as 85 μm. These are some very impressive numbers which are unmatched by any other air filter on the market.
These numbers have been achieved not only because of the polyester material which has been used, but also as you can see in the pictures it utilizes a steel mesh with an epoxy coating as the supporting layer for the polyester material. The main purpose of using mesh on air filters is to make sure the filter does not collapse while the engine is sucking the air, especially during such high air flow instances.
The new steel mesh uses thinner strands that have larger openings. This has allowed the surface area of the polyester material to increase from 66% (as it is with the P08 and P16) to 80% of the total air filter surface.
The P08 and the P16 polyester materials were already able to out perform any other performance air filter on the market due to their construction. Sprint Filter have far out done themselves with the introduction of this P08 F1-85 air filter and now you know exactly how they have made this incredible achievement possible.
The P08 F1-85 air filters are available for consumers to purchase as of December 2017 for the most popular sport bike applications and are available through our website at www.motomillion.com
- Sprint Filter P08, P16 and P08 F1-85 Air Filters
Copyright (2018) - www.motomillion.com
]]>The examples below are all from a BMW S1000RR but the results are consistent across all the range of modern sportbikes.
Here are 5 mods you didn't think of as weight reduction:
1. Fender EliminatorDare we say this is the most common modification which we all do to our street bikes before we even bring them home for the first time? We really like the fender eliminators made by New Rage Cycles because while looking great, they do not compromise on safety. The integrated led signals which they supply on most of their kits are brighter than stock. What if we told you that it weighs less than the stock fender?
Pictured is the stock fender of an S1000RR weighing in at 658grams (1.45lbs)
The New Rage Cycles Fender eliminator for the S1000RR only weighs 321grams (0.71lbs).
That is pretty impressive given that the stock fender is made from plastic, while the New Rage Cycles fender eliminator is made from metal and is powder coated to match the finish of the tail of your S1000RR. Furthermore this is weight reduced from one of the highest point of the motorcycle.
2. Levers
This is another very common upgrade with sportbike owners, mainly for ergonomics and visual purposes. We are very big fans of the TWM levers here at Motomillion, because of the racing heritage, fit, finish and the functionality of them. Unlike others these are truly race bred levers which can be spotted at the highest form of competition all over the world. Weight is a big variable when it comes to racing machines and it has trickled down to the smallest details like the brake and clutch levers.
The stock OEM levers for the BMW S1000RR weighed in at 289grams (0.64lbs)
Even though it has the signature turn-by-click span adjuster on the brake side the TWM Brake and Clutch levers for the BMW S1000RR weighed in at 208grams (0.46lbs).
3. Gas Cap
The next mod on the list is again from the Italian Artisans, TWM. Another fairly popular upgrade which most sportbike owners do to improve functionality and aesthetics. Often never thought as a weight reduction item.
We must mention that the stock gas cap on the S1000RR is fairly lightweight for an OEM gas cap, weighing in only at 178grams (0.39lbs). Just to compare, the stock gas cap on a Ducati Panigale weighs in at 255grams (0.56lbs).
The TWM Quick Action Gas Cap for BMW S1000RR weighs in only at 106grams (0.23lbs).
4. Rear Brake Rotor
One main area which we can upgrade to change the overall performance of a sportbike is the unsprung weight. When talking about unsprung weight, wheels usually dominate the discussion, followed with titanium fasteners, sprockets and often the rear brake rotor is forgotten. MM Racing of Canada produces some beautiful rotors which are also ultralight.
The stock rear rotor of a BMW S1000RR weighs in at 734grams (1.62lbs). This figure would be marginally higher since the rotor which we weighed had been used, so it is missing some material.
MM Racing Ultralight Rear Rotor for the BMW S1000RR weighs in only at 481grams (1.06lbs).
5. Rear Brake Reservoir Delete
This is one of the forgotten upgrades with the modern sportbike crowd. Early in 2000's this was one of the must do upgrades to get that racing look. Even to date, many race top level race machines around the world utilize this trick bit of kit to shave off the last bit of unnecessary weight.
The idea is to get rid of the extra weight of the rear brake fluid reservoir by deleting it, and further optimizing the weight reduction since the HRC (Honda Racing Corporation) rear brake reservoir kit holds less fluid than what a traditional brake fluid reservoir.
The stock rear brake reservoir, hose and the metal bracket for the BMW S1000RR weighed in at 180grams (0.40lbs). (We weren't able to get a picture of this item on the scale due to some technical issues, but here is the offending object for you to see).
The HRC rear brake reservoir delete kit weighed in at a featherweight 31grams (0.07lbs).
This was our list of 5 mods you didn't think of as weight reduction. We hope that you enjoyed reading it as much as we enjoyed putting it together for you.
You can view all of the products for the BMW S10000RR which we have displayed in this blog at the links given below, check out our website www.motomillion.com to view similar items for other brands of superbikes:
- New Rage Cycles Fender Eliminator Kit
- MM Racing Ultralight Rear Brake Rotor
- HRC Rear Brake Reservoir Delete Kit
Copyright (2017) - www.motomillion.com
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As avid motorcycle enthusiasts we are always looking into that special extra touch with everything we install on our bikes. One thing that might have caught your attention when watching a MotoGP race could have been the holes on the end of the levers. These levers are often referred to as the "low drag" levers. As the name suggests, the purpose of these holes is to reduce the aerodynamic drag.
The low drag levers were invented as the solution to mysterious brake fade former MotoGP Rider Loris Capirossi had been experiencing at the end of the Misano straight. Such a simple solution took quiet a bit of research and development to discover. It turned out that the aerodynamic drag was applying pressure on the brake lever which was responsible for the brake fade.
This simple and very cool looking upgrade is available for the Brembo 19 RCS master cylinder. Available in standard and short lengths, these low drag levers are made by TWM with the matching hard anodized finish of the Brembo 19 RCS. (Below: You can see the stock lever blade of the 19 RCS in the middle, standard length to the left and short length to the right)
You can order the low drag lever blade for your Brembo RCS master cylinder through this link: https://www.motomillion.com/products/twm-low-drag-half-lever-for-brembo-rcs-15-16-17-18-19
Very simple to install, tools needed are an 8mm wrench and a 4mm Allen key. Literally takes seconds to swap over.
As we often say, the beauty lies in the details. Look out for Part 2 of the upgrades for Brembo 19 RCS Master Cylinder to be published soon our the Motomillion Blog. Till then, we leave you with the detailed pictures of this subtle upgrade.
Above and Below: Standard Length TWM Low Drag Half Lever for Brembo RCS
Below: Shorty Length TWM Low Drag Half Lever for Brembo RCS
Copyright (2017) - www.motomillion.com
]]>This is a detailed how-to install for the Rapidbike EVO fuel controller module, the bike in picture is a 2015 model year, but installation steps are identical for the 2015 to 2017 model years.
Installation is fairly simple, however you will need to pay attention to the routing of the wires to make sure nothing gets pinched once you start putting the bike's components back together. So while performing the install, try to keep the wiring as neat and tidy as possible.
We recommend having as little fuel in the gas tank as possible before performing this install.
To view the product being installed in our store, click HERE
Tools you will need are:
- T25 Torx Driver
- T30 Torx Driver
- Side Cutter Pliers
- 10mm Socket
- Rag
Let's Begin!
Feed the wiring harness into the tail section from the left hand side of the bike. The large orange connector is what the module will connect to, and this is what you want in the tail section, along with the accessory connectors next to it.
In order to make room to feed the rest of the wiring harness, loosen the four bolts of the seat bracket which is on the rear subframe.
Run the harness under the seat bracket, you can see the Rapidbike Evo harness highlighted in red in the picture below, to give you an idea on how to route it.
Locate the four lower injectors. Injector #1 will be the left most injector and it continue in numerical order.
Injector #1 Injector #2 Injector #3 Injector #4
Connect the Rapidbike Evo harness inline to each injector as numbered on the harness.
Locate the four upper injectors. Injector #5 will be the left most injector and it continue in numerical order.
Injector #5 Injector #6 Injector #7 Injector #8
Connect the Rapidbike Evo harness inline to each injector as numbered on the harness.
Locate the 2-pin black connectors for the crankshaft sensor and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors.
Locate the grey, 6-pin connector for the TPS sensor, and identify the wire which is connected to the number 2 pin of the connector. Using the posi-tap connector provided, connect the green wire from the Rapidbike EVO harness to the wire coming out of the number 2 pin of the TPS connector.
Locate the 4-pin black connectors for the O2 sensor on the left side of the bike and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors. Use zipties to neatly secure the connectors together as shown in the second picture below.
Locate the 4-pin black connectors for the O2 sensor on the right side of the bike and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors. Use zipties to neatly secure the connectors together as shown in the second picture below.
Locate the 3-pin black connectors for the gear position sensor and connect the Rapidbike connectors in-line with the stock connectors.
Double check all the connectors that was just installed in the steps above to make sure everything is connected securely. Start tidying up the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness to make sure the gas tank will slide into place without pinching any wires and/or hitting any of the connectors. Use zip ties to secure the harness at necessary places. In this case, we used secured the upper injector harness at two locations, and the main Rapidbike Evo harness on the left side near the frame.
Connect back the two connectors and the fuel line back underneath the tank, and mount the tank into place. Do not force the tank into place if it is hitting any of the connectors or wires, just try to tuck away the wires or connectors and try again. Once the tank is in place, do not forget to reattach the two breather wires located at the front top sides of the gas tank.
Connect the black wire from the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness to the negative terminal of your battery.
Lastly, connect the large connector from the Rapidbike Evo wiring harness located under the rear seat to the Rapidbike Evo module. We tucked away the accessory connectors right under the tool kit spot, and used zip ties to secure the Rapidbike Evo module so that it isn't freely moving around under the seat while riding.
If you've followed all the steps correctly, your bike should now start and the atuo-adaptive feature will start to immediately make required adjustments to the tune of your bike.
Once you've verified that the bike starts, re-sintall the side fairings, riders seat, rear seat, tank cover, tank side panels.